2010 Mazda MAZDA3
Problems, recalls and owner-reported issues
Structure is the leading concern among 686 owner complaints filed for this model year. This is the highest complaint count among 22 MAZDA3 model years with reports.
Of the 2010 reports, 18 involved a crash and 5 involved a fire. 13 people were injured.
What owners report most often
Recalls and investigations
SeatsFeb 9, 2017
Mazda North American Operations (Mazda) is recalling certain 2011 Mazda2 and 2010-2011 Mazda3 and Mazdaspeed3 vehicles equipped with a manual seat lifter. In the affected vehicles, the seat height adjustment lifter links may break or detach from the seat frame and the seat angle may incline causing the driver to not be able to maintain an appropriate driving position.
If the driver cannot maintain an appropriate driving position, there is an increased risk of a crash.
Mazda will notify owners, and dealers will inspect the seat lifter links and install a reinforcement bracket to the lifter links, or replace the entire seat adjuster unit, free of charge. The recall began April 7, 2017. Owners may contact Mazda customer service at 1-800-222-5500. Mazda's number for this recall is 0917B.
Campaign 17V082000 on NHTSA.gov
Structure, body, hatchback/liftgateSep 6, 2016
Mazda North American Operations (Mazda) is recalling certain model year 2010-2013 Mazda3 and Mazdaspeed3 vehicles manufactured November 18, 2008, to June 8, 2013, 2012-2015 Mazda5 vehicles manufactured October 26, 2010, to June 22, 2015, 2016 CX-3 vehicles manufactured June 1, 2015, to December 26, 2015, and 2013-2016 CX-5 vehicles manufactured December 15, 2011, to December 26, 2015. On the affected vehicles, the lift gate support struts may corrode, possibly causing the struts to break and/or the lift gate to drop unexpectedly.
If the lift gate falls unexpectedly, it may hit the user, increasing their risk of injury.
Mazda dealers will replace the both lift gate supports, free of charge, however parts are not currently available. The recall began April 2017. Owners may contact Mazda customer service at 1-800-222-5500. Mazda's number for this recall is 9916H.
Campaign 16V644000 on NHTSA.gov
Electrical systemApr 16, 2009
MAZDA IS RECALLING 25,400 MY 2010 MAZDA3 VEHICLES. A CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE ENGINE HARNESS AND THE HOUSING OF STARTER MOTOR MAY BE INSUFFICIENT. DUE TO THIS, THE COVERING OF THE HARNESS MAY BE DAMAGED THROUGH VIBRATION DURING OPERATION POSSIBLY CAUSING A SHORT-CIRCUIT BETWEEN CERTAIN HARNESS WIRES AND THE STARTER HOUSING. A SHORT-CIRCUIT CAN RESULT IN ENGINE CONTROL MALFUNCTION AND/OR POOR SHIFT QUALITY.
THE MAIN FUSE MAY BLOW OUT CAUSING THE ENGINE TO STALL AND INABILITY OF RESTART, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
DEALERS WILL HAVE THE ENGINE HARNESS INSPECT AND ADD A PROTECTOR CLIP ON THE AFFECTED SECTION OF THE HARNESS. IF NECESSARY, THE HARNESS WILL BE REPAIRED. THIS SERVICE WILL BE PERFORMED FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON MAY 6, 2009. OWNERS MAY CONTACT MAZDA AT 1-800-222-5500.
Campaign 09V126000 on NHTSA.gov
Representative owner complaints: power train
40 reports, newest first. Show all
Power train, Nov 19, 2012
AT AROUND 24,000 MILES I EXPERIENCED A PARTIAL CLUTCH FAILURE (COULDN'T SHIFT OUT OF GEAR) THAT WENT AWAY AFTER PUMPING THE CLUTCH PETAL. I ASKED THE DEALERSHIP ABOUT THIS AND WAS TOLD NOT TO WORRY ABOUT IT, AND THAT IT WAS PROBABLY DUE TO CLUTCH FREEZING UP IN THE COLD. AT AROUND 30,000 MILES THE CAR STARTED SHAKING WHENEVER I ENGAGED/DISENGAGED THE CLUTCH. IN ORDER TO GET THE CLUTCH TO ENGAGE AT ALL I HAD TO LET OFF THE CLUTCH PETAL MUCH SLOWER THAN USUAL. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE ORIGINAL DEALERSHIP IT WAS PURCHASED AT AND WAS TOLD THE FRICTION DISC WAS WORN OUT, AND THAT THIS WAS A WEAR AND TEAR ITEM AND THEREFORE NOT UNDER WARRANTY. IN ADDITION, THEY SAID THAT THE PILOT BEARING HAD FAILED. AFTER GETTING THESE ITEMS REPLACED A LOUD CREAKING NOISE OCCURS WHENEVER ENGAGING/DISENGAGING THE CLUTCH OR ACCELERATOR PEDALS. THE ISSUE IS STILL NOT RESOLVED. *TR
Power train, Nov 11, 2012
I BROUGHT MY CAR INTO AN AUTHORIZED MAZDA DEALER FOR AN OIL CHANGE AND MENTIONED THAT I NOTICED A SLIGHT SLIPPING IN THE CLUTCH. I WAS LATER INFORMED BY THE DEALER THAT EVEN THOUGH I HAD JUST 33,000 HIGHWAY MILES, THE ENTIRE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. EVEN THOUGH I WAS STILL WITHIN THE WARRANTY PERIOD, THEY TOLD ME THAT IT WOULD NOT BE COVERED. I COMPLAINED TO MAZDA CUSTOMER CARE AND GOT NO WHERE. THE MOST FRUSTRATING PART IS THAT AFTER THE DEALER COMPLETED THE REPAIR, THEY TOLD ME THAT THE CLUTCH SHOWED NO SIGNS OF ABUSE AND THAT IN THEIR PROFESSIONAL OPINION, THIS WAS A PREMATURE FAILURE OF THE CLUTCH. EVEN WITH THIS INFORMATION, MAZDA ITSELF STILL WOULD NOT COVER THE REPAIR. *TR
Power train, Nov 7, 2012
CLUTCHES ARE SUPPOSED TO BE BULLET PROOF. BEING ONE OF THE MAIN PARTS OF THE CAR AND NECESSARY TO IT'S BASIC FUNCTION, CLUTCHES SHOULD BE INCLUDED IN THE 5 YEAR/60,000 MILES WARRANTY. BUT THEY'RE NOT. THE CLUTCH ON THE 2010 MAZDA3 IS ONLY COVERED FOR 7500 MILES. THAT'S SUSPICIOUS IN AND OF ITSELF. SO HERE'S MY STORY, MY CLUTCH GAVE OUT AFTER 50,000 MILES. NO WARNING OR ANYTHING. THE MECHANIC I TOOK IT TO SAID IN THE 32 YEARS HE'S BEEN FIXING CLUTCHES, HE'S NEVER SEEN ANYTHING SO HORRIFIC. HE HAD TO HAVE METAL FABRICATORS COME IN AND MAKE PARTS BECAUSE SOME OF THE SURROUNDING EQUIPMENT WAS SO WARPED. MAZDA CLAIMS NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEIR FAULTY PRODUCT. I'VE READ STORIES ONLINE WHERE PEOPLE REPORT THEIR CLUTCH BLOWING OUT AT 14,000 MILES. EDMUNDS.COM, A LEADER IN CAR RESOURCES RATES THE CLUTCH PROBLEM ON THIS SPECIFIC CAR AT A 9.7/10. IT'S A FAULTY PART IN A CAR AND MAZDA WILL NOT EVEN CONSIDER IT TO BE AN ACTUAL THING. IT'S NOT RIGHT AT ALL. *TR
Power train, Sep 25, 2012
THE CLUTCH ON MY MANUAL TRANSMISSION 2010 MAZDA3 SUDDENLY STOPPED OPERATING PROPERLY. IT GRINDS GEARS AND DOES NOT CHANGE GEARS WHEN I SHIFT. I DROVE THE VEHICLE IN TO A MAZDA DEALER ON SATURDAY, WITH A WEEK LEFT ON MY WARRANTY. ON MONDAY, THEY CALLED TO TELL ME THAT THEIR TECHNICIAN COULD NOT EVEN DRIVE MY CAR AS THERE WAS NO CLUTCH PAD! I WONDERED HOW I COULD DRIVE THE CAR TO THEM, BUT ONCE IT WAS IN THEIR POSSESSION, IT WAS SUDDENLY UNDRIVEABLE. I AM NOW BEING FORCED TO PAY $1100 TO REPLACE THE CLUTCH, BECAUSE THEY SAY MY WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR. I ASKED HOW A COMPLETELY DISINTEGRATED CLUTCH PAD IS "NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR" ON A VEHICLE WHICH HAS ONLY BEEN DRIVEN 16K MILES! THIS COULD HAVE BEEN DANGEROUS HAD IT FAILED COMPLETELY WHILE DRIVING! I FILED A CLAIM WITH THE BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU. I ALSO CALLED THE MAZDA CORPORATE OFFICE FOR ASSISTANCE, WHERE I WAS TOLD I COULD SIMPLY VOICE A COMPLAINT. "TOM" REFUSED TO ALLOW ME TO SPEAK WITH A SUPERVISOR OR ANYONE HIGHER THAN HIMSELF (HE WAS JUST A CALL-CENTER EMPLOYEE). HE OFFERED TO CALL THE DEALERSHIP AND ASK THEM TO PROVIDE ME WITH A DISCOUNT. WHEN I SPOKE TO THE DEALER TODAY, THEY SAID TOM DID CALL THEM, BUT NEVER ASKED FOR ANY DISCOUNTS! ALL HE DID WAS EXPLAIN THAT MAZDA HAS NOT RECALLED THE CLUTCH, SO MY WARRANTY WOULD NOT COVER THE NECESSARY REPLACEMENT. MAZDA SOLD ME A SUB-PAR VEHICLE, AND NOW THEY LIED ABOUT THEIR WAY OF HANDLING THE ERROR. I LOOKED ONLINE AND HAVE FOUND SEVERAL COMPLAINTS ON THE SAME VEHICLE CLAIMING THE EXACT SAME PROBLEMS ON A LOW-MILEAGE CLUTCH. THIS CLEARLY IS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT, NOT DRIVER ERROR. IT SHOULD BE RECALLED AS THE PROBLEM IS SO COMMON IN THIS EXACT MAKE AND MODEL WITH SUCH LOW MILES. $1100 LATER AND I GET A NEW SHODDY CLUTCH WHICH I WILL HAVE TO REPLACE IN ANOTHER 16K MILES. DISAPPOINTED AND WILL NEVER OWN ANOTHER MAZDA AGAIN IF THIS IS NOT RESOLVED. *TR
Power train, Vehicle speed control, Apr 27, 2012
MANY TIMES BUT SPORADICALLY OVER THE LAST TWO YEARS MY MAZDA 3, WHEN COMING TO A STOP AND FOOT FIRMLY ON THE BRAKE WILL HAVE A SUDDEN SURGE IN RPM BETWEEN 1200-2500 RPM AND TRY TO ACCELERATE. SEEMS TO HAPPEN MOST OFTEN FIRST THING IN THE MORNING MORE OFTEN. BECAUSE I AM CONSTANTLY READY THERE HAS BEEN NO CRASH, THOUGH THE TIME RPMS REACHED 2500 I HAD DIFFICULTY STOPPING THE CAR, ON A FREEWAY ON RAMP WHERE SUDDEN DECELERATION WAS NEEDED. I HAVE FOUND THAT ONE PUMP OF THE BREAK ALLEVIATES THE PROBLEM IF THERE IS ROOM TO DO SO. *TR
Engine and engine cooling, Power train, Feb 12, 2012
I HAVE HAD MY 2010 MAZDA 3S SINCE JUNE OF 2010 WHEN I BOUGHT IT NEW. I DRIVE TO AND FROM WORK EVERY DAY. I HAVE 26,000 MILES ON IT, 75% OF WHICH ARE HIGHWAY MILES. I WAS DRIVING TO WORK LAST WEEK, AND NOTICED SOMETHING WITH THE CAR FELT OFF. EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK IT GOT WORSE AND WORSE, SO I FINALLY BROUGHT IT TO MY MECHANIC WHO TOLD ME, AS I SUSPECTED, THAT THE CLUTCH WAS SLIPPING AND NEARING THE END OF ITS LIFE. I HAVE YET TO REPLACE THE BRAKE PADS ON THIS CAR, AND TO GET TOLD THAT THE CLUTCH IS GONE BEFORE I EVEN REPLACE NORMAL MAINTENANCE ITEMS IS JUST FLAT OUT UNACCEPTABLE. I HAVE HAD TWO PREVIOUS CARS WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, AND NEVER REPLACED A CLUTCH, EVEN WHEN THEY HAD CLOSE TO 100,000 MILES ON THEM. MY MECHANIC SUGGESTED BEFORE I DO ANYTHING, TO LOOK ON FORUMS AND SEE IF ANYONE ELSE HAS BEEN HAVING SIMILAR PROBLEMS WITH PREMATURE CLUTCH WEAR. I HAVE SPENT MY WHOLE WEEKEND ON MAZDA AND EDMUNDS FORUMS READING ABOUT COUNTLESS PEOPLE WITH MY MODEL YEAR, 2010, WHO HAVE HAD CLUTCHES GO BEFORE 35,000 MILES. THIS IS NOT A ONE-OFF CASE, AND IT IS CERTAINLY NOT A "WEAR AND TEAR" ISSUE AS THE DEALERSHIP SAYS IT IS. THAT'S THEIR BLANKET COVER-THEIR-[XXX]STATEMENT BECAUSE THEY KNOW THEY PUT OUT A POOR PRODUCT AND DON'T WANT TO DEAL WITH THE COSTS INCURRED WITH REPLACING THEM. I HAVE NO FAITH ANYMORE IN MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP, OR MAZDA AS A BRAND AT THIS POINT. WITH THE SIGNIFICANT NUMBER OF SIMILAR ISSUES TO MINE, THE FACT THAT THEY ARE STILL UNWILLING TO ADMIT THAT THEY CHOSE AN INFERIOR SUPPLIER TO CUT COSTS FOR ONE OF THE MOST CRUCIAL PARTS OF THE CAR, THAT ISN'T COVERED UNDER WARRANTY, IS JUST PISS POOR BUSINESS PRACTICE. I DON'T KNOW WHAT WRITING THIS WILL DO, IF ANYTHING, BUT I DECIDED THAT I AM DONE BEING [XXX] AROUND BY THE DEALER AND HOPEFULLY THIS IS FOLLOWED BY OTHER MAZDA OWNERS WHO SHARE THE DISTASTE FOR THEIR PRODUCT AND SERVICE AS I DO. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).*TR
Service brakes, Hydraulic, Engine and engine cooling, Power train, Dec 28, 2011
AT LESS THAN 24,000 MILES, MY CLUTCH HAS BEGUN TO SLIP TERRIBLY AND CREATES A TERRIBLE BURNING SMELL. I KNOW THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF OTHER MAZDA OWNERS WHO HAVE ALSO HAD TO REPLACE THEIR CLUTCHES BEFORE THEY'VE HAD TO REPLACE BRAKE PADS. THIS IS A DRAIN ON CONSUMERS, AND A SAFETY ISSUE TO BOOT. *TR
Power train, Dec 21, 2011
I PURCHASED A 2010 MAZDA 3 AS A DEMO ON JULY 30, 2011 WITH 4100 MILES ON IT. I NOW HAVE 8500 MILES ON IT AND THE CLUTCH HAS FAILED. AFTER TAKING IT TO THE LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP, I WAS TOLD IT WAS A NORMAL WEAR PRODUCE AND IT HAD BEEN ABUSED SO I HAD TO PAY FOR THE REPAIR. WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR IT HAD A HIGH RELEASE IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL BUT I FIGURED IT WAS NORMAL FOR THE CAR. SINCE EARLY NOVEMBER, THE "INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER" HAS BEEN EXTREMELY SENSITIVE TO THE POINT THAT I CANNOT MAINTAIN SPEED UP A SLIGHT INCLINE WITHOUT THE ENGINE REVVING UP. I WAS TOLD WHEN I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP THIS WAS DUE TO A CLUTCH FAILURE. I DON'T BELIEVE IT IS ACCEPTABLE FOR A CLUTCH TO GO OUT AFTER JUST 8500 MILES OF DRIVING. MY PREVIOUS VEHICLE WENT OVER 100,000 MILES OF MY SAME DRIVING AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION WITHOUT ANY CLUTCH ISSUES. I AM NOT HAPPY WITH MAZDA, MAZDA PARTS, AND MAZDA'S CUSTOMER ASSISTANCE ON THIS ISSUE. *TR
Power train, Jul 15, 2011
CLUTCH FAILED AT 19.5K MILES. IVE ONLY HAD HER SINCE NOVEMBER, AND WITH THE WAY I DRIVE THERES NO WAY IN HELL THE CLUTCH SHOULD GO OUT THIS SOON... NOW AS TO EXPLAIN AS TO WHAT HAPPENED, I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY WHEN MY ENGINE STARTED REVING A BIT ODDLY WHEN I BARELY PRESSED ON THE GAS PEDAL. IT WENT FROM THE NORMAL 2900 RPM IN 6TH GEAR AT ABOUT 65 MPH AND SHOT UP TO 3500 WAY TO QUICKLY THEN DROPPED BACK TO 2900 AND SLOWLY ROSE HOW IT SHOULDVE TO GET ME TO 70MPH...IT CONTINUED DOING THIS WHEN I GOT OFF THE HIGHWAY FOR ABOUT 15 MINUTES, GROWING STEADILY WORSE UNTIL I WAS UNABLE TO GET INTO ANY GEAR AT ALL. THERE WAS NEVER A SMELL OF CLUTCH INSIDE THE CAR THE ENTIRE TIME, NO ODD NOISES, NO GRINDING, AND THE CLUTCH WAS ABOUT HALF AS STIFF AS IT NORMALLY WAS. SO I CALLED DEALER, THEY TOWED MY CAR(COURSE IT TOOK FOREVER BECAUSE THEY SENT THE TRUCK TO THE WRONG LOCATION HAHA). IT TOOK 2 DAYS BEFORE THEY EVEN GOT TO GLANCE AT THE CAR TO SEE WHAT NEEDED TO BE DONE(NOT TAKE APART MIND U, JUST LOOKED), AND SAID THE CLUTCH WAS "SMOKED" NO OTHER SPECIFICS BUT WANTED ME TO AUTHORIZE THEM FOR 525 WORTH OF LABOR PLUS PARTS -_-. SO NOW IM STUCK FIGHTING THEM TO REPAIR THIS UNDER WARRANTY(I KNOW THERES USUALLY NOT A WARRANTY UNLESS MANUFACTURERS DEFECT..BUT THIS IS DEFINITELY DEFECTIVE). INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6) *TT
Power train, Feb 8, 2011
CLUTCH MALFUNCTION SAYS IT'S NOT DEFECTIVE WHICH IS IT BECAUSE THE CAR ONLY HAS 19,000 MILES. *TR
Power train, Jan 11, 2011
I HAVE A 2010 MAZDA 3 SPOR WITH 41,000 MILES AND THE CLUTCH TOTALLY WENT. CLUTCH , FLYWHEEL HAD TO BE REPLACED FOR $1800 DOLLARS. MAZDA REFUSED TO ADMIT ANY DEFECT. *TR
Power train, Dec 27, 2010
I PURCHASED MY 2010 MAZDA 3 IN AUGUST 2009. IN DECEMBER 2010, I WAS DRIVING HOME FROM WORK AND STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT. WHEN THE LIGHT TURNED GREEN, I ENGAGED THE CLUTCH AND I FELT A POP UNDER MY FOOT AND THE CLUTCH BECAME STUCK. WHEN IT FINALLY CAME BACK UP IT VIBRATED AND JERKED ITSELF BEFORE GOING BACK TO STARTING POSITION. I PUT THE CAR IN FIRST GEAR AND ATTEMPTED TO ACCELERATE. THE CAR ACCELERATED BUT THE VEHICLE DID NOT MOVE. TO SEE IF THE CLUTCH WAS CATCHING, I PUT THE CAR IN FIRST GEAR AND TOOK MY FOOT OFF THE CLUTCH WITHOUT GIVING IT GAS. THE CAR DID NOT TURN OFF AS IT NORMALLY WOULD IF I DID NOT GIVE IT GAS WHILE IN FIRST GEAR. THE CLUTCH FAILED WITHOUT WARNING AT 20,100 MILES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER AND I WAS ADVISED THAT THE ENTIRE CLUTCH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AND I MIGHT HAVE TO REPLACE THE FLYWHEEL. I WAS ADVISED THE CLUTCH WAS CONSIDERED A WEAR ITEM AND COULD NOT BE REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. HOWEVER, DUE TO THE SUDDEN AND PREMATURE NATURE OF THE FAILURE, I AM SPEAKING WITH MAZDA IN AN ATTEMPT TO HAVE THE VEHICLE FIXED UNDER WARRANTY. *TR
Power train, Dec 18, 2010
AT 5000 MILES CLUTCH STARTED TO MAKE SQUEAKING SOUND AND VIBRATION WHEN ENGAGING. *TR
Power train, Dec 2, 2010
TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA3. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 60 MPH, THE CONTACT ENGAGED THE CLUTCH AND FELT AN UNUSUAL POP UNDER HER FOOT. SHE STATED THAT THE VEHICLE EXHIBITED AN ABNORMAL INCREASE IN ENGINE RPMS AS IF SHE WERE ATTEMPTING TO DRIVE WHILE IN NEUTRAL. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHERE THE DEALER ADVISED HER THAT THE ENTIRE CLUTCH WOULD NEED REPLACING. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. SHE THEN CONTACTED THE MANUFACTURER AND WAS ADVISED THAT THE CLUTCH WAS NOT UNDER WARRANTY AND WOULD PROVIDE NO FURTHER ASSISTANCE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT UNDER RECALL. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 33,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 35,000.
Power train, Oct 21, 2010
2011 MAZDA SPEED3. NEW OFF THE LOT AND CLUTCH FAILS IN 30 MILES...SAME DAY! AFTER "REPAIR", CLUTCH AGAIN FAILS NEXT DAY, ~120 MILES. 2 CLUTCH FAILURES IN 2 DAYS OF USE, ~150 MILES. FAILED WHILE DRIVING. DEALER/MAZDA CLAIM "WEAR" ITEM...OUR FAULT! FIGHTING VIA LEMON LAW AND MECHANTABILITY. *TR